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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Pumpernickel with spiced wagyu tenderloin and pickled cabbage


If you don't want the extra fat or expense from the wagyu, use high-quality aged tenderloin. You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

You'll need

8 juniper berries 2 tsp coriander seeds 2 tsp black peppercorns 600 gm wagyu tenderloin 1 tbsp olive oil To serve: good-quality mayonnaise   Pickled cabbage salad ¼ white cabbage, shredded 2½ tbsp sea salt 1 tbsp caster sugar 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 bunch chives, finely chopped   Pumpernickel 1 potato (about 250gm), coarsely chopped 30 gm fine polenta 20 gm blackstrap molasses 20 gm dark chocolate buttons (54% cocoa solids) 10 gm butter ½ tsp caraway seeds 2 tsp dried yeast 60 gm wholemeal spelt flour 260 gm rye flour ½ eggwhite mixed with ½ tbsp cold water

Method

  • 01
  • For pickled cabbage, combine ingredients in a bowl, then refrigerate until lightly cured (24 hours).
  • 02
  • For pumpernickel, preheat oven to 190C. Cook potato in a small saucepan of boiling water until tender (10-15 minutes), drain and mash, set aside 150gm (discard remaining). Combine polenta and 200ml water in a saucepan and stir continuously over low heat until thick (5 minutes). Add molasses, chocolate, butter, caraway and 2 tsp sea salt and stir to combine. Transfer to a large bowl and cool to room temperature (15-20 minutes). Meanwhile, combine yeast, potato and 50ml lukewarm water in a large bowl, stand until foamy (15-20 minutes), add wholemeal flour and 200gm rye flour and stir to combine, then knead until smooth. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and stand until doubled in size (1 hour). Knock back and knead lightly with remaining flour (add extra if mixture is too wet), then form into a 38cm-long log. Place on a baking tray dusted with polenta or lined with baking paper. Brush with eggwhite mixture and bake until hollow-sounding when tapped (50 minutes). Cool completely on a wire rack, then slice.
  • 03
  • Preheat oven to 250C. Dry-roast spices until fragrant (1-2 minutes) and finely crush in a mortar and pestle. Combine with 1 tbsp sea salt flakes on a plate, add wagyu and roll to coat evenly. Heat oil in an ovenproof frying pan over medium heat, add wagyu and turn occasionally until browned (2-4 minutes), transfer to oven and turn occasionally until cooked rare (8-10 minutes). Set aside, cool to room temperature, then tightly wrap in plastic wrap to create a cylinder. Refrigerate until chilled (1 hour). Thinly slice and serve on pumpernickel topped with pickled cabbage and mayonnaise.

At A Glance

  • Serves 12 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 12 people

Featured in

Nov 2009

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