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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Ben Shewry's favourtie souvlaki restaurant in Melbourne Kalimera Souvlaki Art

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Ricotta casadetti with red wine-baked peaches


Ricotta goes really well with peaches. The trick is to use a well-drained full-fat ricotta. If it's too moist it can make the pastries soggy, so drain it in a muslin-lined sieve for a few hours. These little fried pastries are light and delicious, but if you prefer, serve the peaches simply with a wedge of fresh ricotta to the side.

You'll need

200 gm (1 1/3 cups) plain flour 1 egg 15 gm softened butter 60 ml Marsala 2½ tbsp caster sugar 370 gm ricotta 1 lemon, finely grated rind only For deep-frying: vegetable oil For dusting: pure icing sugar, sieved   Red wine-baked peaches 8 ripe yellow peaches 125 ml red wine 110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar 3 fresh bay leaves Rind of 1 lemon, removed with a peeler

Method

  • 01
  • For red wine-baked peaches, preheat oven to 220C. Score tops of peaches and fit snugly in a ceramic baking dish. Combine wine, sugar, bay leaves and rind in a saucepan, bring to the boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar, then pour over peaches and bake, basting occasionally, until glazed and warmed through (15 minutes).
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, preheat oil in a deep-fryer or deep-sided saucepan to 180C. Beat flour, egg, butter, Marsala, 1½ tbsp caster sugar, a pinch of salt and 40ml water (or enough to form a soft dough) in an electric mixer fitted with a paddle until combined and smooth (2-3 minutes), then divide into eight pieces. Roll each piece on a lightly floured surface to a 5mm-thick round, dusting with flour if dough is sticky, and set aside until required.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, combine ricotta, lemon rind and remaining caster sugar in a bowl. Place a tablespoon of ricotta mixture in centre of pastry rounds, spreading slightly. Fold pastry over to form a semicircle, pinch edges to seal. Trim excess pastry and deep-fry in batches until golden (2-3 minutes), drain on absorbent paper, dust with icing sugar and serve warm with warm red wine-baked peaches.

At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Featured in

Feb 2010

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