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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Agrodolce beef cheeks with pappardelle


You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

You'll need

4 beef cheeks (about 1kg) 500 ml red wine 1½ tbsp olive oil 1 onion, coarsely chopped 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 tbsp tomato paste 1 litre (4 cups) beef stock 4 rosemary sprigs 2 tbsp brown sugar, or to taste 80 ml (1/3 cup) saba (see note) 60 ml (¼ cup) red wine vinegar, or to taste   Pappardelle 1 quantity egg-yolk pasta dough For dusting: fine semolina   Gremolata 1 cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped Finely grated rind of 2 lemons 1 garlic clove, finely chopped

Method

  • 01
  • Combine beef cheeks and red wine in a non-reactive container, refrigerate to marinate overnight, turning occasionally.
  • 02
  • Preheat oven to 110C. Heat oil in a large casserole over high heat. Remove beef from marinade (reserve marinade), pat dry and cook, turning once, until browned (1-2 minutes each side), remove beef, set aside. Reduce heat to low, add onion and garlic to casserole, sauté until tender (7-10 minutes). Add tomato paste and stir occasionally until paste darkens (1-2 minutes). Add stock, three rosemary sprigs, reserved marinade and bring to the simmer. Add beef, cover and cook in oven until very tender (3-3½ hours).
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, for pappardelle, cut pasta into 2cm-thick ribbons and set aside on a tray dusted with semolina.
  • 04
  • Remove beef from liquid, strain liquid through a fine sieve into a saucepan. Add sugar, saba, vinegar and remaining rosemary. Reduce liquid over medium heat until slightly thickened (10-15 minutes). Season to taste, adding more sugar and vinegar to taste. Coarsely shred beef, toss through sauce, keep warm.
  • 05
  • For gremolata, combine ingredients in a bowl, stir to combine and set aside.
  • 06
  • Cook pasta in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until al dente (1-2 minutes). Drain, toss through beef sauce and serve hot, scattered with gremolata.

Note Saba is a thick, sweet condiment made from grape must. If unavailable, substitute vincotto.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Featured in

May 2010

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