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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Quince and vanilla sufganiyot


These jelly-filled doughnuts are made to celebrate Hanukkah. You can substitute shop-bought jam for the jelly. You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

You'll need

7 gm dried yeast (about 1 sachet) 110 gm (½ cup) caster sugar 300 gm (2 cups) plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg 70 ml lukewarm milk 3 egg yolks (whites reserved for brushing) 30 gm softened butter, plus extra for greasing Finely grated rind of 1 lemon For deep-frying: vegetable oil For dusting: pure icing sugar, sieved   Quince and vanilla jelly 1 kg under-ripe quince (about 2 large), unpeeled Juice and seeds of 1½ lemons About 250gm white sugar 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped

Method

  • 01
  • For quince and vanilla jelly, wash quinces, remove fur, then coarsely chop and combine in a large saucepan with lemon juice, seeds and 2 litres cold water. Bring to the boil over high heat, reduce to medium and cook until quince is very pulpy (40-45 minutes). Transfer to a large muslin-lined sieve placed over a bowl, refrigerate overnight to drain (do not squeeze or jelly will be cloudy), discard pulp. Measure quince liquid into a clean saucepan. For every 310ml liquid, add 250gm white sugar. Stir over medium-high heat until sugar dissolves, add vanilla bean and seeds and boil until mixture reaches setting point (4-5 minutes; see note). Remove vanilla bean, transfer to sterilised jars, stand until set (2-3 hours). Makes about 300ml and will keep refrigerated for 6 months.
  • 02
  • Combine yeast and 80ml lukewarm water in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, stirring to dissolve, then add caster sugar and stand until foamy (4-5 minutes). Sift together flour, spices and a pinch of fine salt. Add milk and yolks to yeast mixture, mix to combine, then add flour mixture, butter and lemon rind. Beat until smooth, sticky and slightly elastic (4-5 minutes), then transfer to a lightly buttered bowl, turn to coat and cover with plastic wrap. Stand in a warm place until doubled in size (1-1½ hours).
  • 03
  • Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface, roll to 5mm thick, then cut out 6cm-diameter circles with a well-floured round cutter. Re-roll and cut scraps. Place 1 tsp quince and vanilla jelly in the centre of half the circles, brush edges with eggwhite, top with remaining dough circles, pinch edges to seal. Place on a lightly floured tray, cover, and stand in a warm place until risen slightly (25-30 minutes).
  • 04
  • Meanwhile, preheat oil in a deep-fryer or deep-sided saucepan to 170C. Deep-fry sufganiyot, in batches, turning often, until golden brown and cooked through (5-6 minutes; be careful as hot oil may spit). Drain on absorbent paper, dust heavily with icing sugar and serve hot.

Note To test setting point, place a few saucers in freezer while jelly is cooking. Remove jelly from heat and spoon onto a cold saucer, return to freezer for 30 seconds, then push with your finger. If it wrinkles, it's ready. If not, cook jelly for another few minutes, test again, remove from heat and set aside to cool.


At A Glance

  • Serves 20 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 20 people

Featured in

Jun 2010

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