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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Slow-roasted veal breast stuffed with sausage


Make sure you use a sharp filleting knife to cut the pocket for the stuffing. And if, by some chance, the veal isn't devoured in the first sitting, it makes a cracking sandwich the next day.

You'll need

1 veal breast (about 750gm; see note) 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 carrot, finely diced 2 tsp fennel seeds 140 gm (2 cups) coarse fresh breadcrumbs 2 tbsp finely chopped sage 500 gm Italian pork and fennel sausages (about 8), skins removed To serve: pickled onions (optional)

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 150C. Cut a pocket in the longest side of the veal breast and set aside.
  • 02
  • Heat half the oil in a frying pan, add onion and garlic and sauté over low heat until beginning to caramelise (12-15 minutes). Add carrot and fennel seeds and sauté until carrot is tender (4-5 minutes). Stir through breadcrumbs and sage and set aside to cool, then add sausage meat, season to taste and mix well to combine, then stuff veal breast and tie at intervals with kitchen string.
  • 03
  • Heat remaining oil in a large frying pan over high heat, add veal and cook, turning once, until browned (3-4 minutes each side). Transfer veal to a roasting pan and roast until very tender (2½-3 hours). Thickly slice and serve hot with pickled onions.

Note You may need to order veal breast in advance from your butcher.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Drink Suggestion

Chianti Riserva.

Featured in

May 2010

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