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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

2017 Australian Hotel Awards: The Finalists

This year's finalists across 11 different categories include established and new hotels, all with particular areas of excellence. Stay tuned to find out which hotels will take the top spots when they're announced at a ceremony at QT Melbourne on Wednesday 24 May, and published in our 2017 Australian Hotel Guide, on sale Thursday 25 May.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Veal shin with sage and garlic


This is a tomato-free twist on osso buco Milanese, with a herb instead of a traditional saffron risotto.

You'll need

50 ml olive oil 6 pieces of veal shin on the bone (2.8kg) 3 Spanish onions, thinly sliced 1 head of garlic, cloves separated ¼ cup (loosely packed) sage leaves 3 fresh bay leaves 350 ml dry white wine Thinly peeled rind of 1 lemon   Herb risotto 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 300 gm (1½ cups) carnaroli rice 100 ml dry white wine 1 litre (4 cups) hot chicken stock ¾ cup (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 cup (loosely packed) basil, finely chopped ½ cup (loosely packed) celery leaves, finely chopped 1 tbsp finely chopped chives Finely grated rind of ½ lemon

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 150C. Heat olive oil in a large casserole over high heat, add veal and cook, turning occasionally, until browned (4-6 minutes), remove from casserole and set aside.
  • 02
  • Reduce heat to low-medium, add onion, garlic, sage and bay leaves and sauté until onion is tender and beginning to caramelise (7-8 minutes). Deglaze pan with wine, then return veal to casserole, add 1 litre water and bring to the simmer. Add lemon rind, season to taste, cover with a lid and cook in the oven until meat falls from the bone (2½-2¾ hours).
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, for herb risotto, 45 minutes before veal is ready, heat extra-virgin olive oil in a large saucepan, add onion and celery and sauté over low-medium heat until very tender (10-12 minutes). Add rice, increase heat to medium and stir until grains are toasted (3-4 minutes). Add wine, reduce by half (1-2 minutes), add stock one ladleful at a time, stirring continuously, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding the next, and cook until rice is al dente (20-30 minutes), stir through herbs and lemon rind and season to taste. Serve hot with veal shin.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Drink Suggestion

Quality white Soave.

Featured in

May 2010

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