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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Mustard-crusted veal rack with potato and celeriac gratin


The juices from the veal drip down into the gratin, adding lipsmacking flavour. You can make the gratin ahead if you like, and place it under the veal as it cooks to catch the juices and heat through.

You'll need

75 gm softened butter 70 gm (¼ cup) Dijon mustard 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2 tbsp finely grated fresh horseradish 1 8-cutlet French-cut veal rack (about 2kg), at room temperature ¼ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tbsp each thyme and coarsely chopped tarragon   Potato and celeriac gratin 125 gm butter, coarsely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2 tbsp thyme 3 large pontiac potatoes 1 celeriac ½ onion, thinly sliced 375 ml (1½ cups) veal stock

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 180C. For potato and celeriac gratin, combine butter, garlic and thyme in a small saucepan and cook over low heat until melted and fragrant (3-4 minutes), season to taste and set aside. Trim potato and celeriac to form oval shapes of similar size, then thinly slice on a mandolin. Layer potato, celeriac and onion in a 20cm-diameter springform pan, overlapping slices, drizzling with butter and seasoning generously between layers. Place pan on a piece of aluminium foil and wrap to enclose base and sides of pan (this is to catch any leakage) and place on an oven tray lined with foil. Gradually add veal stock, then place on lowest rack of oven and cook until gratin is golden and vegetables are very tender (1½-1¾ hours). Stand for 20 minutes before removing sides of pan (excess liquid may drain out) and serve hot.
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, beat butter in an electric mixer until pale and fluffy (5-6 minutes), add mustard, garlic and horseradish, season to taste and beat until well combined.
  • 03
  • Pat veal dry with absorbent paper to remove any moisture, then rub mustard mixture thickly over. Place on a lightly oiled wire rack, then place directly into oven over gratin (juices will drip into gratin) and roast until cooked to your liking (35-40 minutes for medium-rare). Rest in a warm place for 20 minutes, press herbs into veal and serve hot with gratin.

At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Drink Suggestion

Spicy Southern Rhône red.

Featured in

Aug 2010

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