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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Devilled eggs with celery and coriander salt


You'll need

10 eggs, at room temperature 80 gm good-quality whole-egg mayonnaise 1 golden shallot, finely chopped 1 tsp salted baby capers, rinsed, drained, finely chopped ½ tsp Dijon mustard ½ tsp cayenne pepper, or to taste To taste: Tabasco   Celery and coriander salt 1 cup (loosely packed) inner pale celery leaves ½ tsp coriander seeds 40 gm (¼ cup) sea salt flakes

Method

  • 01
  • For celery and coriander salt, preheat oven to 120C. Scatter celery leaves on an oven tray and roast until crisp (15-20 minutes), then set aside to dry and cool completely. Meanwhile, dry-roast coriander seeds until fragrant (1 minute), and coarsely crush in a mortar and pestle. Add salt and celery leaves, set aside. Celery salt will keep in an airtight container for a week.
  • 02
  • Bring a large saucepan of water to the simmer over medium heat, add eggs and stir occasionally until hard-boiled (10 minutes). Refresh under cold running water, then peel, halve lengthways and carefully remove yolk with a teaspoon. Place eggs on a tray lined with absorbent paper, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until required.
  • 03
  • Press yolks through a fine sieve with a spatula into a bowl. Combine with remaining ingredients, season to taste, then carefully fill eggwhite halves with mixture. Scatter with celery leaves and coriander salt and serve.

At A Glance

  • Serves 12 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 12 people

Featured in

Dec 2011

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