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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Roast lamb with anchovies, rosemary and salsa verde


You'll need

1 lamb leg, bone-in (about 2.75kg) 16 anchovy fillets 1 tbsp salted baby capers, rinsed, drained ¼ cup (firmly packed) rosemary sprigs 250 ml white wine 250 ml (1 cup) chicken stock 6 sebago potatoes, scrubbed and coarsely chopped 16 garlic cloves, unpeeled 1 tbsp olive oil   Salsa verde ½ slice (about 25gm) soft white sourdough bread 60 ml (¼ cup) white wine vinegar 8 anchovy fillets, chopped 4 cornichons, finely chopped 2 tbsp capers in vinegar, rinsed, drained 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1½ cups (firmly packed) flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 2 tsp finely chopped rosemary 160 ml mild-flavoured extra-virgin olive oil

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 140C. Pierce lamb in 16 places with a small sharp knife and press some anchovy, some capers and some rosemary sprigs into each cut. Place in a roasting pan, pour over wine and stock and roast until meat is tender (3½-4 hours), topping up with extra stock if pan begins to dry out.
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, place potatoes and garlic in a roasting pan, drizzle with oil, season to taste and roast, turning occasionally, until crisp and golden (1¼-1½ hours).
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, for salsa verde, soak bread in vinegar until soft (1-2 minutes). Process anchovies, cornichons, capers, garlic and bread in a food processor to a coarse paste, add remaining ingredients, pulse to combine, season to taste and serve with lamb and potatoes, drizzled with pan juices.

At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Drink Suggestion

Top-quality sangiovese or Chianti.

Featured in

Apr 2011

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