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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Roast pork with rhubarb and rosemary jelly


You can pair this dish with a crisp winter-leaf salad. You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

You'll need

2 kg boneless pork belly, skin on 1 tbsp sea salt flakes Spanish onions 1.2 kg chat potatoes, large ones halved 2 tbsp olive oil ½ garlic clove, finely chopped 80 gm coarse rye breadcrumbs 50 gm rhubarb (about 1 stalk), diced ½ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley   Rhubarb and rosemary jelly 700 gm rhubarb, coarsely chopped 2 Granny Smith apples, unpeeled, coarsely chopped Juice and seeds of 1½ lemons 440 gm (2 cups) white sugar 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 3 rosemary sprigs

Method

  • 01
  • Score pork skin widthways at 1cm intervals with a small sharp knife, rub in 1 tbsp sea salt flakes and refrigerate, uncovered, to dry out (overnight).
  • 02
  • For rhubarb and rosemary jelly, bring rhubarb, apple, lemon juice and seeds and 1.5 litres water to the simmer in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium, simmer until pulpy (1-1¼ hours), strain through a muslin-lined sieve to yield 1 litre liquid (do not press on solids; discard solids). Transfer rhubarb liquid to a clean pan, add sugar and stir over medium-high heat until sugar dissolves. Simmer until mixture reaches setting point (45 minutes-1 hour); to test, spoon a little on a chilled saucer, return saucer to freezer for 1 minute, then push edge with your finger. If mixture wrinkles, it is ready. Remove from heat, stand for 10 minutes, skim scum from surface and stir in vinegar. Ladle into sterilised jars, add a rosemary sprig to each, seal and stand until cooled to room temperature. Makes about 500ml. Jelly will keep for 3 months; refrigerate after opening.
  • 03
  • Preheat oven to 200C. Cut two onions into thin wedges, combine with potatoes and half the oil in a roasting pan, season to taste and roast while you prepare the pork.
  • 04
  • Finely chop remaining onion, add with garlic and remaining oil to a small saucepan and stir occasionally over medium heat until tender (3-4 minutes). Transfer to a bowl, add breadcrumbs, rhubarb and parsley, season to taste and stir to combine.
  • 05
  • Lay pork skin-side down on a work surface, scatter breadcrumb mixture along centre, then roll to form a long cylinder. Secure at intervals with kitchen string, place on top of potatoes and onion in roasting pan and roast until skin starts to crisp (25-30 minutes). Reduce oven to 180C and roast until just cooked through (50-55 minutes). Serve hot with rhubarb and rosemary jelly.

At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Featured in

Jun 2011

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