Note The Food of Morocco ($65, hbk) by Paula Wolfert is published by Bloomsbury. This recipe has been reproduced with minor GT style changes.
"This dish is known in Tangier as 'husband and wife' because of the positioning of the sardines," writes Paula Wolfert. "The fish heads are left on, and pairs of fish are arranged so that the heads are looking away from one another, like an old alienated married couple! Serve hot or cold, brushed lightly with oil and lemon juice."