"Cocido is the national dish of Spain," says Camorra. "This is the version Mum used to make in the summer. You'd crush up the chickpeas, put in the garlic and have it like a salad. It goes really well with a wide range of dishes. The most important thing here is getting really good chickpeas; my preference is for Ord River chickpeas from Western Australia. When you cook them, cover them with hot water from the tap - no salt - let them soak overnight, come back, drain that water off, cover them again with hot water from the tap, put in some carrots and onions and bay leaves, cook them slowly and then let them cool down in the liquid so they puff up as much as possible." You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.