"In other words 'the kings' doughnut'," says Camorra. "It's traditionally served around the sixth of January, which is Three Kings' Day, or the day in Spain which features processions representing the three kings who came to give gifts at Jesus' birth. All these kings will be throwing out presents to the kids in the street, and normally this cake will have some sort of little trinket in it for the kids to find. It's a very simple cake, almost like a yeasty, citrusy brioche. Sometimes you'll find it filled with crème pâtissière, but usually it's just the brioche, some glacé fruits and the icing."