“The characteristic chewy, dense texture of bagels comes from blanching them in sweetened water before baking,” says Biron. “The spelt adds texture and also gives a deep flavour. Resting the dough makes the kneading a lot easier and dramatically improves the structure of the bread. Professional bakers call this step ‘autolyse’: you can use this technique for all breadmaking.” You’ll need to begin this recipe a day ahead. Bagels are best eaten the day they’re made.