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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Roast blue-eye trevalla with spinach hollandaise


Any firm-fleshed white fish can be substituted in this simple but elegant dish, but it needs to be firm - these types of fish roast best. If the butter hardens in the hollandaise stir it gently over the pan of simmering water again until it just softens; be careful because it will split if it gets too warm.

You'll need

2 tbsp olive oil 4 pieces blue-eye trevalla fillet (about 220gm each) To serve: boiled kipfler potatoes   Spinach hollandaise 480 gm baby spinach leaves 75 ml white wine vinegar 75 ml dry white wine 2 golden shallots, thinly sliced 10 black peppercorns 3 egg yolks 200 ml clarified butter (see note)

Method

  • 01
  • For spinach hollandaise, blanch spinach to just wilt (30 seconds), drain and refresh in iced water. Drain well, squeeze out excess moisture, finely chop and set aside. Simmer vinegar, wine, shallots and peppercorns in a small saucepan over medium heat until reduced by half (3-4 minutes), then strain into a heatproof bowl. Add egg yolks and whisk over a saucepan of gently simmering water until pale and frothy and thick enough to hold a ribbon when drizzled from the whisk (5-6 minutes). Remove from heat and add butter in a thin steady stream, whisking continuously until thick and emulsified. Season to taste, stir in spinach and keep warm.
  • 02
  • Preheat oven to 180C. Heat olive oil in a large frying pan over high heat, add blue-eye skin-side down and cook until skin crisps (1-2 minutes), turn, place in the oven and roast until almost cooked through (10-12 minutes). Serve hot with spinach hollandaise and boiled potatoes.

Note Clarified butter is made by melting chilled diced butter over low heat until the yellow fat separates from the white milk solids. Pour off the clarified fat and discard solids; 300gm butter yields about 200ml clarified butter.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

Oct 2013

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