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Chef's around Australia are taking hams to the next level this Christmas.
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For our 50th anniversary issue in 2016, we scoured Australia asking two questions: What dishes are making waves right now? What flavours will take us into the next half-century? Sydney provided 16 answers.
Whether in a fresh salad or seasonal seafood dish, feta's creamy tang can be used to add interest to a variety of summer dishes.
"Great cake, also known in Barbados as black cake or rum cake, is a variation of British Christmas cake that's smashed with rum and falernum syrup," says Momofuku Seiobo chef Paul Carmichael. "This festive cake varies from household to household but they all have two things in common: tons of dried fruit and rum. It's a cake that should be started at least a month out so the fruit can marinate in the booze. Start this recipe up to five weeks ahead to macerate the fruit and baste the cake."
Use this master recipe as the starting point and add your choice from the glazes that follow.
Cherry and allspice glaze
Combine 350gm pitted cherries with 120ml maple syrup, 2 tbsp water, 2 tbsp Sherry vinegar, and a pinch each of ground cloves and cardamom in a saucepan and simmer until cherries release juice, and liquid thickens slightly (20-25 minutes). Place ham in a roasting pan and cook, basting occasionally, until glazed.
Ginger beer and hot English mustard glaze
Combine 750ml ginger beer, 2 tbsp hot English mustard, 55gm (1/4 cup) brown sugar, 1 tsp finely crushed green peppercorns and a pinch of ground ginger in a saucepan over medium heat and reduce until thickened slightly (20-30 minutes). Place ham in a roasting pan, pour ginger beer mixture over it and cook, basting occasionally, until golden and warmed through.
Char siu-style glaze
Combine 160gm hoisin sauce, 120gm honey, 2 tbsp light soy sauce, 2 tbsp Shaoxing wine, 1 tbsp fermented soy bean paste (available from Asian grocers) and ½ tsp five-spice in a bowl. Place ham in a roasting pan and baste with glaze as it roasts.
Spiced quince glaze
Stir 100gm quince paste, 60ml dry white wine, 2 tbsp apple juice, 1 tbsp Sherry vinegar and ½ tsp each ground cloves, ground cinnamon and ground allspice in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until melted and smooth. Add 160gm brown sugar and stir until dissolved. Place ham in a roasting pan, brush with half the quince glaze and roast, brushing occasionally with remaining quince glaze, until sticky, golden and warmed through.
Persian apricot glaze
Finely chop rind of 1 preserved lemon and combine in a bowl with 300gm smooth apricot jam, 120gm mild-flavoured honey, juice of 1 orange and 1 tsp ras el hanout spice blend (available from select delicatessens and Middle Eastern grocers). Whisk until smooth, then brush over ham and baste occasionally as it cooks.
Brown sugar spice glaze
Combine 150gm brown sugar, 60ml (1/4 cup) apple cider vinegar, 60gm Dijon mustard, 1 tsp ground allspice, and ¼ tsp each ground cardamom and cinnamon in a bowl, rub all over scored ham, place in a roasting pan and cook, basting occasionally, until golden.
Chipotle, lime and pineapple glaze
Combine chopped flesh of ½ pineapple with the juice of 2 limes, 180gm crushed light palm sugar and 2 jarred chipotle chillies in a blender. Pound 1 cup coriander and sea salt in a mortar and pestle, then add to pineapple mixture to taste. Baste ham as it roasts.
Spiced marmalade glaze
Process 250ml freshly squeezed orange juice, 120gm marmalade, 100ml golden rum, 2 tbsp coarsely chopped thyme, 1 golden shallot, 1 garlic clove, 1 fresh bay leaf and 1 habanero chilli in a food processor until very smooth, then season to taste. Place ham in a roasting pan and baste with glaze every 20 minutes.
Kecap manis and chilli glaze
Combine 250ml kecap manis with 60ml Chinkiang vinegar (available from Asian grocers), 1 tsp each dried chilli flakes and ground star anise, 3 crushed garlic cloves, and 2 tbsp fish sauce in a bowl, then baste ham as it roasts.
Coconut nectar, tamarind and chilli glaze
Combine 200ml coconut nectar (available from health-food shops), 1 long red chilli split lengthways, finely grated rind of 2 limes and 60ml water in a saucepan over medium heat. Reduce until slightly thickened (10-15 minutes), then add juice of 1 lime and 1 tsp tamarind concentrate (available from Asian grocers), and season to taste. Place ham in a roasting pan, pour glaze over it and roast, basting occasionally.
We love our ham, and we love it even more basted to glazed perfection. Take sugar, spice, and plenty more to make this Christmas standard a standout.
Why glaze? Done right, glazing takes ham from a humble stand-by
to a show-stopping centrepiece, adding layers of flavour along the
Sugar is what makes a glaze. Whether it's in the form of brown sugar, muscovado or honey, it caramelises to create that thick, syrupy sheen, which you then have the freedom to balance with spices, juices, vinegars or even booze for extra Christmas spirit.
First you need to remove the ham's skin and score the fat so the glaze seeps down into the meat. Taking off the skin also allows the fat to render. You can either first pour the glaze over the ham before putting it in the oven, or baste the ham regularly while it cooks, or both. Allow time for each layer of glaze to set before basting with another, as though you were applying coats of lacquer.
At first the glaze will not cover the ham very well, but as the
liquids evaporate, the glaze thickens and the sugars caramelise
with the meat.
Keep basting until you have a delicious, golden coating, but don't let it get to the point where the sugar crystallises and forms a crust.
A ham needs about an hour in the oven to form a good glaze, basting as much as possible for the best result. Adding water to the base of the pan isn't a bad idea either - it stops the glaze from burning on the base of the ham.
We asked the GT food team to share a few of their favourite glaze recipes for your inspiration. Glaze away.
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