Note For brown chicken stock, roast chicken carcasses at high heat until brown, then cover completely with water, bring to the boil, skim scum and cook over low heat until stock is well flavoured (3-4 hours). Shop-bought lard is fine, but making your own yields the best flavour: cook chopped pork back-fat in a saucepan over low heat with 5mm water in the base (to prevent burning) until the fat renders, then strain and refrigerate until fat solidifies. It can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. Allow plenty of time to rest meat so the proteins relax and the juices settle. It really makes the difference for a juicy, tender result. Cover the meat loosely with foil (unless it has crackling, which would lose its crunch) and rest it in a warm place. Large cuts of beef, veal and pork need around 30 minutes, chicken 15 minutes and fish 5-10 minutes.
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