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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Toasted-flour pasta with silverbeet


This is inspired by a Guy Grossi recipe. Toasting the flour gives the pasta a lovely nutty flavour. This dish is great teamed with a bitter green-leaf salad.

You'll need

90 ml (1/3 cup) olive oil 1 onion, thinly sliced 300 gm (1 bunch) silverbeet, stalks removed and thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Finely grated rind of 1 lemon 300 gm pine or Swiss brown mushrooms, cut into 3cm slices 600 ml pouring cream 4 thyme sprigs 60 gm parmesan, finely grated 40 gm coarse fresh sourdough breadcrumbs 100 gm goat’s curd   Toasted-flour pasta 165 gm durum semolina flour (see note), plus extra for dusting 85 gm plain flour 1 large egg, lightly beaten

Method

  • 01
  • For toasted-flour pasta, preheat oven to 180C. Scatter half the durum semolina flour over an oven tray and roast, shaking occasionally, until golden (4-6 minutes), then set aside to cool. Process toasted flour, plain flour, remaining durum semolina flour, egg and 85ml water in a food processor until a dough forms. Turn out onto a work surface, knead until smooth (8-10 minutes), then wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate to rest (1 hour). Divide dough into 2 halves and, working with a half at a time, feed through a pasta machine, starting with rollers at widest setting. Fold in half lengthways, feed through again, then repeat, reducing setting a notch each time, rolling and folding, until dough is translucent and 2mm thick. Place pasta on a lightly floured surface, cut into rough 4cm-wide strips and transfer to an oven tray dusted with durum semolina flour. Repeat with remaining dough.
  • 02
  • Preheat oven to 180C. Heat 30ml oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add onion, silverbeet stalks and half the garlic and stir occasionally until tender (6-8 minutes). Meanwhile, blanch silverbeet leaves until bright green (30 seconds), drain, refresh, drain again, squeeze out excess water, coarsely chop and add to pan with silverbeet stalks. Add lemon rind, season to taste and transfer to a large bowl.
  • 03
  • Wipe out frying pan with absorbent paper and heat 30ml oil over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, season to taste and stir occasionally until golden (3-4 minutes). Add to silverbeet mixture and set aside.
  • 04
  • Simmer cream, thyme and remaining garlic in a saucepan over medium heat until reduced by two-thirds (15 minutes). Strain (discards solids) and set aside.
  • 05
  • Blanch pasta (30 seconds), drain and add to mushroom and silverbeet mixture. Add cream mixture, season to taste, toss to combine and transfer to a 3-litre baking dish.
  • 06
  • Combine parmesan, breadcrumbs and remaining oil in a small bowl, season to taste, toss to combine and scatter on top of pasta. Add dollops of goat’s curd and bake until golden and bubbling (25-30 minutes). Serve hot.

Note Durum semolina flour is available from select delicatessens.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people

Drink Suggestion

Gutsy Sicilian red.

Featured in

Jul 2013

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