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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Duck roasted in Lambrusco with blood plums and bay


Here the tartness of the plums combines with the treacly muscovado and tangy vincotto to form a sweet and sour sauce that undercuts the richness of the duck. Substitute pinot noir if you don't have a good Lambrusco handy. Serve this duck with a simple salad and some bread to the side.

You'll need

1 duck (about 1.8kg), halved and backbone removed 300 ml dry Lambrusco 2 rosemary sprigs 1-2 fresh bay leaves 8 blood plums, halved and stones removed 75 gm (1/3 cup) dark muscovado 2 tbsp vincotto

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 200C. Bring a very large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add duck and bring back to the boil, then remove duck from water, pat dry with absorbent paper and set aside to drain, preferably in the refrigerator (1 hour).
  • 02
  • Brown duck, skin-side down in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat until skin is golden (10 minutes), then transfer to a roasting pan that fits it snugly. Pour wine around duck, add herbs, season to taste and roast for 30 minutes, then add plums, sprinkle sugar and vincotto over plums and cook, basting duck occasionally with pan juices, until golden and sticky and cooked to medium (15-20 minutes). Set aside to rest (10 minutes), then serve with a salad.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Drink Suggestion

Dry red Lambrusco, naturally.

Featured in

Mar 2014

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