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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

La mian with pipis and ginger


Noodles and ginger are the perfect building blocks to almost any stir-fry. Pipis are a handsome addition, but even without them this is a tasty, quick noodle fix.

You'll need

50 ml Shaoxing wine 500 gm pipis, soaked in cold water 250 gm fresh la mian noodles 60 ml (¼ cup) peanut oil 30 gm ginger, grated on a microplane 2 garlic cloves, grated on a microplane 4 spring onions, finely chopped, green parts reserved 60 ml (¼ cup) chicken stock 30 ml light soy sauce 1 tbsp dark soy (or kecap manis) 2 tsp Chinkiang vinegar

Method

  • 01
  • Bring Shaoxing wine to the boil in a large saucepan, add pipis, cover and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until they open (3-5 minutes). Drain, reserving cooking liquid, and set aside.
  • 02
  • Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add noodles and cook until tender (2-3 minutes). Drain.
  • 03
  • Heat peanut oil in a wok over high heat, add ginger, garlic and spring onion, and stir-fry until fragrant (1-2 minutes). Add drained noodles, chicken stock, soy sauces, vinegar and a pinch of white pepper, and turn noodles to coat with sauce. Add a little reserved pipi liquid to achieve your preferred sauce consistency. Serve scattered with spring onion greens.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Drink Suggestion

Nutty amontillado Sherry.

Featured in

May 2014

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