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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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Coconut crab and green mango salad

"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Rib roast with potato gratin


A rib roast is an investment - take care to rest the meat well to make the most of it.

You'll need

2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp chopped rosemary 2 tsp Dijon mustard, plus extra to serve 3 anchovy fillets, crushed with a mortar and pestle 1 rack of beef (also known as a standing rib roast), with at least 5 ribs (4.3kg) 3 onions, thickly sliced   Potato gratin 500 ml pouring cream 4 garlic cloves, crushed 5 Desiree potatoes (about 2kg) ½ nutmeg

Method

  • 01
  • Combine oil, rosemary, mustard and anchovies in a non-reactive dish, add beef, turn to coat, cover and marinate at room temperature (1 hour).
  • 02
  • For potato gratin, preheat oven to 190C. Whisk cream and garlic in a bowl to combine. Peel and thinly slice potatoes on a mandolin into the cream, tossing to coat as you go to prevent discolouration, season to taste and arrange in even layers in a buttered 30cm x 30cm oven dish. Season with freshly ground black pepper and a grating of nutmeg, cover with baking paper then foil and bake on lowest rung of oven until a knife pierces potato easily (45 minutes to 1 hour). Uncover and cook until golden (30 minutes). Keep warm.
  • 03
  • Meanwhile, place beef on top of onions in a roasting dish and roast on top shelf until medium-rare (1½ hours). Set beef aside loosely covered with foil to rest (30 minutes), then serve with gratin and mustard.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people

Drink Suggestion

Full-bodied cabernet merlot.

Featured in

Jul 2014

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