Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Rhubarb and custard brown-sugar waffles


This simple, batter-based waffle could be the vehicle for all manner of flavour combinations. While we've opted for a wintry combination of roast rhubarb and thick hazelnut custard, they'd work equally well with yoghurt and summer berries or simply a big scoop of ice-cream and a dollop of warm salted caramel sauce. These waffles are best made and served fresh.

You'll need

400 gm rhubarb (about 1½ bunches), cut into rough 7cm lengths 330 gm raw caster sugar Scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean Thinly peeled rind and juice of 1 lemon and 1 orange 125 ml dessert wine 1 cinnamon quill   Hazelnut custard 170 gm hazelnuts, plus extra, chopped, to serve 400 ml milk 300 ml pouring cream Scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean or 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 7 egg yolks 165 gm (3/4 cup) raw caster sugar 25 gm each plain flour and cornflour 300 gm crème fraiche   Brown-sugar waffles 300 gm (2 cups) plain flour 200 gm brown sugar 2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp baking powder 300 ml milk 125 ml (½ cup) buttermilk, well shaken 125 gm butter, melted and cooled 2 eggs, separated

Method

  • 01
  • For hazelnut custard, preheat oven to 180C. Spread hazelnuts on an oven tray and roast, stirring occasionally, until golden (4-5 minutes). Cool slightly, then rub off skins with a tea towel. Transfer to a saucepan, add milk, cream and vanilla, bring to the simmer over medium heat and set aside to infuse (30 minutes). Transfer to a food processor, pulse until coarsely chopped, strain through a muslin-lined sieve into a jug, pressing firmly on solids to extract all liquid, then return to a clean pan and bring back to the simmer. Whisk yolks, sugar, flour and cornflour in a bowl to combine, then pour milk mixture over, whisking continuously. Return to pan, whisk continuously until boiling, then continue to whisk until thick (3-4 minutes). Transfer to a bowl, cover closely with plastic wrap, to prevent a skin forming, and refrigerate until thick and cooled (1½-2 hours). Custard will keep refrigerated for 2 days. Just before serving, transfer custard to an electric mixer, add crème fraîche and whisk until smooth and thick (3-4 minutes).
  • 02
  • Preheat oven to 200C. Combine rhubarb in a roasting pan with sugar and vanilla seeds and stir to coat well. Spread evenly in pan, add rinds, juices, wine and cinnamon and roast until tender and syrupy (20-25 minutes). Keep warm.
  • 03
  • For brown-sugar waffles, combine flour, sugar, cinnamon, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and a pinch of sea salt in a bowl and make a well in the centre. Whisk the milk, buttermilk, melted butter and egg yolks to combine, pour into the well and whisk until smooth. Whisk eggwhites and a pinch of salt in a separate bowl until stiff peaks form, then fold into batter. Preheat a waffle iron to the manufacturer’s instructions, then cook batter, in batches, until browned and crisp (3-4 minutes). Serve warm topped with roast rhubarb, a spoonful of hazelnut custard and chopped hazelnuts.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Drink Suggestion

Botrytis riesling.

Featured in

Sep 2014

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