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AA Gill's final column for Gourmet Traveller

We mourn the loss of a treasured member of the Gourmet Traveller family who passed awayon December 10, 2016. British writer AA Gill was a contributor to the magazine from July 2004. Gill’s travel column was as insightful as it was witty, funny as it was thoughtful – he was without peer. This is the final piece he wrote for Gourmet Traveller; it appears in the December issue, 2016. - Anthea Loucas Bosha, Editor

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"This salad bursts with fresh, vibrant flavours and became a signature on my Paramount menus," says Christine Manfield. "I capitalised on using green mangoes in many dishes as they became more widely available. Blue swimmer crabs from South Australia have the most delicious sweet meat. It's best to buy them whole, cook them yourself and carefully pick the meat from the shell - a tedious task but it gives the best flavour. This entree also works well with spanner crab meat (you can buy this in packs ready cooked from reliable fishmongers). The sweetness of the crab, the richness of the fresh coconut and the sourness of green mango make a wonderful partnership. It's all about harmony on the palate and using the very best produce."

Lamb stuffed with silverbeet and anchovies


Anchovies can do some of their best work behind the scenes, melting into sauces and adding great depth of flavour. This is one such dish, where they bring a silverbeet stuffing to life in a roasted lamb shoulder.

You'll need

850 gm (about 1 bunch) silverbeet, trimmed, stalks reserved 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped ¼ cup (loosely packed) oregano 10 large anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 1 lamb leg (about 3.5kg), butterflied 1 tbsp lard 125 ml dry vermouth 250 ml (1 cup) chicken stock   Pomme purée 4 large desiree potatoes (1.2kg), scrubbed and thickly sliced 300 gm butter, coarsely chopped

Method

  • 01
  • Preheat oven to 160C. Blanch silverbeet leaves in a large saucepan of boiling water until just tender (1 minute). Drain, refresh in iced water, drain again, then squeeze excess water from silverbeet, coarsely chop and place in a bowl. Pound garlic and ½ tsp sea salt flakes to a smooth paste forms with a mortar and pestle. Add oregano and anchovies, and pound to a coarse paste forms. Add anchovy mixture to silverbeet along with lemon rind and a good grind of black pepper.
  • 02
  • Open up lamb leg, spread silverbeet mixture on top and roll meat to enclose. Tie at intervals with kitchen string and set aside.
  • 03
  • Heat lard in a roasting pan large enough to fit lamb over medium-high heat. Add lamb, skin-side down, and cook, rolling over onto edges, until browned (3-5 minutes). Turn lamb over, add vermouth and stock, and transfer to oven. Roast until lamb is tender and cooked (2-2½ hours). Set lamb aside to rest (30 minutes). Skim excess fat from the pan juices and add silverbeet stalks to pan, toss to coat in the pan juices and roast until tender (20-30 minutes). Add lemon juice and season to taste.
  • 04
  • Meanwhile, for pomme purée, bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add potato and cook over medium heat until tender (12-16 minutes). Drain and return to saucepan over low heat until all moisture has evaporated. Peel and mash, or pass through a ricer into a clean saucepan. Place saucepan over low heat and gradually stir in butter until it’s all incorporated. Season to taste. Drizzle lamb leg with a little of the pan juices, slice and serve with pomme purée.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Drink Suggestion

Red Corbières.

Featured in

Oct 2014

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