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Italy's claim to being the greatest of the world's cuisines has one key weakness: breakfast. But, argues John Irving, there's more to the story than first meets the eye.

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The hottest spots to eat, drink, play and stay on your next trip to LA, rounded up into one perfect day.

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Finalists for Maitre D' of the Year 2018
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The maitre d' is your first introduction to a restaurant - they do as much to create a sense of ambience as lighting, tableware and music. And these three professionals are top of the class.

Eggnog ice-pops with milk crumb


These icy treats transform the traditional flavours of eggnog into a dessert well suited to a summer Christmas. And as a bonus, they don't need an ice-cream maker. The milk crumb is inspired by a recipe by Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar.

You'll need

300 ml pouring cream 150 ml milk 30 ml each Cognac and dark rum Thinly peeled rind of 1 orange, juice of ½ 1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped 5 egg yolks 100 gm raw caster sugar 1 tsp finely grated nutmeg   Milk crumb 30 gm dried milk powder 20 gm plain flour 1 tbsp caster sugar Finely grated rind of 1/4 lemon 30 gm butter, melted

Method

  • 01
  • Bring cream, milk, Cognac, rum, rind, juice, and vanilla bean and seeds to a simmer over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, whisk yolks and sugar in a bowl until thick and pale (3-4 minutes), then whisk in spices. Pour cream mixture into yolk mixture, whisking continuously, then return to pan and stir continuously over medium heat until mixture thickly coats the back of a wooden spoon (4-5 minutes). Strain into a bowl, whisk occasionally until cool, then refrigerate until thick and completely chilled (2-3 hours). Pour into 125ml ice-pop or dariole moulds, freeze until half-frozen (2-3 hours), insert ice-pop sticks and freeze until firm (2-3 hours).
  • 02
  • For milk crumb, preheat oven to 140C and line a baking tray with baking paper. Combine ingredients except butter and 1 tsp sea salt in a bowl, then add butter and mix until clusters form. Spread on baking tray and bake, stirring occasionally, until dry and pale (8-10 minutes). Cool completely on tray and store in an airtight container until required. Milk crumb will keep for a week.
  • 03
  • Dip moulds in hot water briefly to release ice-pops, place on a baking tray lined with baking paper, cover with plastic wrap and freeze until required. Serve ice-pops with milk crumb for dipping.

At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 people

Featured in

Dec 2014

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