Gai yang is one of our favourite barbecued chicken dishes, especially when cooked over coals in the traditional way. If you can't get sugar cane (available at select Asian grocers), you can skewer the chicken on thick bamboo skewers or chopsticks instead. We've opted for the tang of slightly underripe pineapple in the accompanying salad, but the traditional som dtum is a beauty too. Begin recipe a day ahead to marinate the chicken.
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