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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Rhubarb and yoghurt twists


The yoghurt in this dough makes for an ultra-light and fluffy texture, and also helps these twists keep well - they stay fresh for a couple of days. While we've opted for the tang of rhubarb for the filling, other seasonal fruits work well, too. Fresh berries or diced stone fruit would be delicious, as would roasted pear when the weather turns cool. Begin this recipe a day ahead to drain the yoghurt.

You'll need

370 gm (3⅔ cups) thick Greek yoghurt 550 gm strong white flour 1 tsp dried yeast 55 gm caster sugar 2 tbsp brown sugar Finely grated rind of 1 lemon Icing sugar, for dusting   Roast rhubarb 150 gm rhubarb, cut into 1cm pieces 75 gm caster sugar 2 tsp rosewater

Method

  • 01
  • Spoon 250gm yoghurt into a sieve lined with muslin placed over a bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight to drain.
  • 02
  • For roast rhubarb, preheat oven to 200C and line an oven tray with baking paper. Mix ingredients in a bowl to combine well, spread on tray and roast until just tender (10-15 minutes). Pour pan juices into a separate bowl and set rhubarb aside to cool.
  • 03
  • Mix flour, yeast, half the caster sugar and 1 tsp salt in an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook until combined. Whisk remaining yoghurt in a bowl with 220ml warm water to combine, then, with mixer on medium speed, gradually add to flour mixture and knead to form a rough dough. Stand for 10 minutes, then knead for 10 seconds, rest and repeat once more. Cover and stand until doubled in size (1 hour), then turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knock back.
  • 04
  • Preheat oven to 180C. Roll out dough to a 35cm square and spread the middle third with half the drained yoghurt. Combine brown sugar with lemon rind and remaining caster sugar in a bowl, scatter half evenly over yoghurt, then scatter with half the roast rhubarb. Fold bottom third of the dough over to cover, then spread the top with remaining drained yoghurt. Scatter with remaining sugar mixture and remaining roast rhubarb, then fold the top third of the dough over to cover. Roll lightly with a rolling pin to seal, then trim uneven ends and cut into 3cm-wide strips. Working with a strip at a time, twist the ends in opposite directions, then place on baking trays lined with baking paper, leaving about 5cm between each. Cover and stand until buns have risen slightly (10-15 minutes), then bake, swapping and turning trays partway through cooking, until golden brown (25-30 minutes). Brush with reserved rhubarb juices, dust with icing sugar and serve warm or at room temperature. These twists are best eaten on the day they’re made.

At A Glance

  • Serves 8 - 10 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 8 - 10 people

Drink Suggestion

Late-harvest riesling

Featured in

April 2016

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