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Jamaican goat curry

"Goat is the world's most consumed meat and we hardly give it a look in Australia. I adore it in so many different preparations, from South-East Asian dishes through to Italian braises, but my favourite is Jamaican curry with its heady spices," says Evans. "I see spices as nature's medicine cabinet and use them in as much of my cooking as possible. If you can't get your hands on quality goat meat (farmers' markets are a good bet or online), then feel free to substitute lamb or another protein. But if you've never had goat before, I urge you to give it a whirl."

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December: passionfruit curd


You'll need

250 ml (1 cup) passionfruit juice (see note) 225 gm unsalted butter, coarsely chopped 10 egg yolks 200 gm caster sugar

Method

  • 01
  • Combine passionfruit juice and butter in a large heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir occasionally until butter melts (4-5 minutes). Meanwhile, whisk yolks and sugar in a separate bowl to combine, then pour over hot passionfruit juice mixture, whisking continuously to combine. Place bowl over simmering water and stir continuously until mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon thickly (7-8 minutes), then cool over ice and transfer to sterilised jars. Refrigerate until required. Passionfruit curd will keep refrigerated for up to 1 month.
Note This recipe makes about 1 litre. For passionfruit juice, scoop pulp from passionfruit into a food processor and pulse for 30 seconds to crack seeds, then pass through a fine sieve (discard seeds). About 12 passionfruit will yield 250ml juice.

This recipe is from the December 2009 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller magazine.

Passionfruit
I grew up with a rambling passionfruit vine on the back fence, so in summer there were endless supplies of this delightful and exotic fruit which we mainly squeezed directly into our mouths, or occasionally scooped over vanilla ice-cream.

I love the unique flavour of passionfruit, juicy and a little piquant. The juice makes a terrific curd (mixed with a little orange juice) and I do have a soft spot for old-fashioned passionfruit pavlova.

A vigorous evergreen vine originally from the Americas, it is native to subtropical and tropical regions but has established itself well in Australia. In hot climates, passionfruit vines produce fruit all year round, peaking in summer and again in winter, but in cooler climates fruit ripen in mid to late summer only.

A ripe passionfruit turns from green to dark purple then starts to wrinkle. Very wrinkly fruit that feels light may be overripe and empty of juice. Choose fruit that is dark, heavy and beginning to wrinkle. I like to make passionfruit curd to swirl through organic cream or a great yoghurt and serve with cake, or to fill a classic sponge along with some whipped cream.

Turkey
Cranking up the oven on a hot Christmas day isn’t really all that appealing, yet the tradition of roasting turkey come Christmas has endured here in Australia. For me, it’s about sourcing the very best turkey, cooking it gently and slowly and wholeheartedly celebrating this great, albeit ridiculous, tradition.

I recently spoke with a turkey farmer out in Dadswells Bridge in western Victoria who rears beautiful free-range turkeys of excellent quality. Daryl Deutscher has been breeding turkeys for 35 years now and is passionate about his birds, especially his rare-breed varieties, which have been a hobby since childhood. His turkeys always receive high praise from the specialty shops that sell his produce, and Daryl attributes this to the high-quality diet, the breed, plenty of sunshine and access to pasture.

I am pleased that the quality and range of turkeys available nowadays have vastly improved. A good, free-range bird reared well makes all the difference. Quality butchers and specialist poultry suppliers offer fresh (as opposed to frozen) and free-range birds of various size. Buying from a quality supplier is definitely worth the effort and it pays to order well in advance.

I prefer to cook a large turkey because an older bird will have a more pronounced flavour than a younger one, and because everyone loves the leftovers. An older bird also has a little more fat than a young one, and cooked on the bone it will be succulent.

Regardless of the size of your turkey, the best way to cook a bird is gently. The most common turkey ruination comes from overcooking your bird at too high a temperature – turkey is actually quite a delicate meat and requires a delicate hand. Relatively slow roasting with plenty of basting will give you a moist and tender bird.

Redcurrants
I remember as a child my mother bringing home punnets of her very first Australian redcurrants. She was beside herself with excitement – berries from her home country. Back in Bavaria they grew on a bush in her family’s backyard and she had grown up eating redcurrants every summer, usually picked in the countryside. I remember that every summer after that, mum would bake flans with a sponge/biscuit kind of base filled with custard and topped with redcurrants, and also delicious cheesecakes made with quark and topped with redcurrants and a beautiful red jelly.

Redcurrants are a little sour, which is why they go so well with cream and custard but also why they need a little sweet jelly or sugar for balance. Of course redcurrant jelly makes a divine accompaniment to baked ham or turkey and is equally delicious on buttered toast.

My uncle Wilfried grows redcurrants on his farm in G


At A Glance

  • Serves 10 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 10 people

Additional Notes

ALSO IN SEASON

FRUIT 
Apricots, bananas, berries, cherries, lemons, lychees, mangoes, pineapples, rockmelons, Valencia oranges, watermelons.

VEGETABLES 
Asparagus, avocados, capsicum, celery, cucumbers, eggplant, lettuce, onions, peas, squash, sweetcorn, tomatoes, zucchini, zucchini flowers.

SEAFOOD
Atlantic salmon, blue swimmer crabs, Sydney rock oysters.

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