Healthy Eating

We're championing fresh food that packs a flavour punch, from salads and vegetable-packed bowls to grains and light desserts.

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

O Tama Carey's fried eggs with seeni sambol, coconut and turmeric

"I first cooked a version of this dish - inspired by the excellent deep-fried egg dish at Billy Kwong - while working at a restaurant in Sri Lanka," says O Tama Carey. "The lattice-like eggs are doused in a creamy turmeric curry sauce and topped with seeni sambol, a sweet-spiced caramelised onion relish. This dish is equally perfect for an indulgent breakfast as it is served as part of a larger meal." The recipe for the seeni sambol makes more than you need, but to get the right balance of spices you need to make at least this much. It keeps refrigerated for up to three weeks; use as an onion relish. The curry sauce can be made a day or two ahead.

December: passionfruit curd


You'll need

250 ml (1 cup) passionfruit juice (see note) 225 gm unsalted butter, coarsely chopped 10 egg yolks 200 gm caster sugar

Method

  • 01
  • Combine passionfruit juice and butter in a large heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and stir occasionally until butter melts (4-5 minutes). Meanwhile, whisk yolks and sugar in a separate bowl to combine, then pour over hot passionfruit juice mixture, whisking continuously to combine. Place bowl over simmering water and stir continuously until mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon thickly (7-8 minutes), then cool over ice and transfer to sterilised jars. Refrigerate until required. Passionfruit curd will keep refrigerated for up to 1 month.
Note This recipe makes about 1 litre. For passionfruit juice, scoop pulp from passionfruit into a food processor and pulse for 30 seconds to crack seeds, then pass through a fine sieve (discard seeds). About 12 passionfruit will yield 250ml juice.

This recipe is from the December 2009 issue of Australian Gourmet Traveller magazine.

Passionfruit
I grew up with a rambling passionfruit vine on the back fence, so in summer there were endless supplies of this delightful and exotic fruit which we mainly squeezed directly into our mouths, or occasionally scooped over vanilla ice-cream.

I love the unique flavour of passionfruit, juicy and a little piquant. The juice makes a terrific curd (mixed with a little orange juice) and I do have a soft spot for old-fashioned passionfruit pavlova.

A vigorous evergreen vine originally from the Americas, it is native to subtropical and tropical regions but has established itself well in Australia. In hot climates, passionfruit vines produce fruit all year round, peaking in summer and again in winter, but in cooler climates fruit ripen in mid to late summer only.

A ripe passionfruit turns from green to dark purple then starts to wrinkle. Very wrinkly fruit that feels light may be overripe and empty of juice. Choose fruit that is dark, heavy and beginning to wrinkle. I like to make passionfruit curd to swirl through organic cream or a great yoghurt and serve with cake, or to fill a classic sponge along with some whipped cream.

Turkey
Cranking up the oven on a hot Christmas day isn’t really all that appealing, yet the tradition of roasting turkey come Christmas has endured here in Australia. For me, it’s about sourcing the very best turkey, cooking it gently and slowly and wholeheartedly celebrating this great, albeit ridiculous, tradition.

I recently spoke with a turkey farmer out in Dadswells Bridge in western Victoria who rears beautiful free-range turkeys of excellent quality. Daryl Deutscher has been breeding turkeys for 35 years now and is passionate about his birds, especially his rare-breed varieties, which have been a hobby since childhood. His turkeys always receive high praise from the specialty shops that sell his produce, and Daryl attributes this to the high-quality diet, the breed, plenty of sunshine and access to pasture.

I am pleased that the quality and range of turkeys available nowadays have vastly improved. A good, free-range bird reared well makes all the difference. Quality butchers and specialist poultry suppliers offer fresh (as opposed to frozen) and free-range birds of various size. Buying from a quality supplier is definitely worth the effort and it pays to order well in advance.

I prefer to cook a large turkey because an older bird will have a more pronounced flavour than a younger one, and because everyone loves the leftovers. An older bird also has a little more fat than a young one, and cooked on the bone it will be succulent.

Regardless of the size of your turkey, the best way to cook a bird is gently. The most common turkey ruination comes from overcooking your bird at too high a temperature – turkey is actually quite a delicate meat and requires a delicate hand. Relatively slow roasting with plenty of basting will give you a moist and tender bird.

Redcurrants
I remember as a child my mother bringing home punnets of her very first Australian redcurrants. She was beside herself with excitement – berries from her home country. Back in Bavaria they grew on a bush in her family’s backyard and she had grown up eating redcurrants every summer, usually picked in the countryside. I remember that every summer after that, mum would bake flans with a sponge/biscuit kind of base filled with custard and topped with redcurrants, and also delicious cheesecakes made with quark and topped with redcurrants and a beautiful red jelly.

Redcurrants are a little sour, which is why they go so well with cream and custard but also why they need a little sweet jelly or sugar for balance. Of course redcurrant jelly makes a divine accompaniment to baked ham or turkey and is equally delicious on buttered toast.

My uncle Wilfried grows redcurrants on his farm in G


At A Glance

  • Serves 10 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 10 people

Additional Notes

ALSO IN SEASON

FRUIT 
Apricots, bananas, berries, cherries, lemons, lychees, mangoes, pineapples, rockmelons, Valencia oranges, watermelons.

VEGETABLES 
Asparagus, avocados, capsicum, celery, cucumbers, eggplant, lettuce, onions, peas, squash, sweetcorn, tomatoes, zucchini, zucchini flowers.

SEAFOOD
Atlantic salmon, blue swimmer crabs, Sydney rock oysters.

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