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There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.


Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

2017 Australian Hotel Awards: The Finalists

This year's finalists across 11 different categories include established and new hotels, all with particular areas of excellence. Stay tuned to find out which hotels will take the top spots when they're announced at a ceremony at QT Melbourne on Wednesday 24 May, and published in our 2017 Australian Hotel Guide, on sale Thursday 25 May.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Gayettes de Provence

Sort of sausages with a French accent and sans skins, gayettes will brighten your summer barbecue, writes Damien Pignolet.

You'll need

1 pig’s liver (about 1.2kg; see note) 500 gm lean pork, diced 350 gm pork back fat, diced (see note) 1 onion, finely diced 2 large cloves garlic, crushed to a paste 3 gm white peppercorns, coarsely cracked 2 tsp herbes de Provence (see note) 1 tsp quatre-epices (see note) or ½ tsp ground allspice and ¼ tsp ground nutmeg Finely grated rind of 1 lemon and ½ orange 60 ml dry white wine 30 ml Ricard Pastis de Marseille 1 bunch swiss chard or silverbeet, leaves only, washed and coarsely chopped 28 gm salt or 2% of the net weight of the meat if less than above 40 gm iced water directly from the freezer 300 gm caul fat, soaked in cold water with the juice of ½ lemon(at least an hour or up to overnight; see note) For cooking: olive oil or duck fat


  • 01
  • Trim the pig’s liver of all tubes – there are lots of tubes to be avoided but unlike calf’s liver the skin is very thin and impossible to remove. Cut liver into small dice – you should have about 550gm liver.
  • 02
  • Combine liver, pork, back fat, onion, garlic, peppercorns, herbes de Provence, quarter-epices and rinds in a large bowl, add wine and pastis, mix well, cover and refrigerate overnight. Meanwhile, blanch the swiss chard for 5 minutes or until tender but not too soft. Drain and refresh under cold running water until very cold. Drain and squeeze the leaves dry with a clean tea towel. Chop coarsely and chill well (at least 1 hour).
  • 03
  • Mince the meat mixture through the medium plate of a mincer directly into a large mixing bowl, working quickly so meat remains chilled, then quickly add the chard, salt and ice water.
  • 04
  • Beat in a stand mixer or using your hand to emulsify. The mixture should feel sticky between the fingers and appear sweaty. Divide into 16 even pieces (about 110gm each) and, with slightly wet hands, shape them into triangles about 2.5cm thick, placing them on a tray in the refrigerator as you go to keep chilled.
  • 05
  • Drain the caul fat and rinse well under cold running water. Gently squeeze small mounds fairly dry. Use a water spray to moisten the work surface, then spread out the caul. Wrap each gayette in caul, avoiding double thicknesses except at the joins; it’s important the caul melts as much as possible.
  • 06
  • Preheat the oven to 180C and heat a barbecue flat plate to medium-high (or heat a flat grill pan over medium-high heat). Add oil or fat and heat until hot but not smoking, add the gayettes in batches and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on both sides (10 minutes).
  • 07
  • Place the gayettes in the oven until just cooked through (10 minutes; pierce one with a small knife while holding a spoon against it to collect the juices, which should run clear). Remove from the oven and serve with gratin of kipfler potatoes and a mesclun salad.

Note Begin this recipe a day ahead to marinate the meat. Pig's livers weigh 1kg-1.2kg and contain lots of tubes. Unlike calf's livers they don't require skinning. Because less than half the weight is required (and the product is inexpensive) you can be extravagant and select only the pure flesh. Cut 2cm slices across the narrower width, then cut around the tubes to achieve 550gm. Order back fat and caul in advance from your butcher. Herbes de Provence are available from select spice specialists; Pignolet prefers A L'Olivier brand, available from Gourmet Life. He makes his own quatre-épices by grinding seven parts allspice with one part each of nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon in a spice blender.

If I were asked to name my favourite section in French cuisine it would have to be charcuterie. While it shares the precision of the pastry kitchen, it enjoys the creativity and surprise of the sauce section. There are endless possibilities of flavour and texture as well as presentation, from the humble, everyday terrine to grand masterpieces such as a duck galantine - the bird boned and stuffed with a pork, duck and foie gras farce, and sometimes truffles, for special occasions such as Bastille Day or New Year's Eve.

Sausages using all manner of meat, poultry, game and seafood can be found in the charcuteries of every French city and village, along with regional specialities. Though charcuterie means "cooked flesh" (chair meaning "flesh" and cuit "cooked"), it principally applies to pork-based products. Sausages without skins fall into the category of crépinettes (faggots in the UK), the name drawn from crépine, meaning caul or lace fat. A membrane flecked with fine lines of snowy white fat, caul fat is used to encase sausage meat and it melts when cooked, providing both moisture and extra flavour. Gayettes are crépinettes formed into small rounded triangles about 2.5cm thick - though the shape distinctions can be blurred - and lend themselves to a wide range of flavours.

Gayettes de Provence call for pork liver and both lean and fat pork; the addition of Swiss chard, garlic and thyme makes them Provençale. I take the flavour spectrum a little further by adding a little aniseed flavour in the form of Ricard pastis, made in Marseille. Traditionally, gayettes are cooked in animal fat or olive oil and served cold as part of an hors d'oeuvre. They are very good served with a gratin of waxy potatoes enriched with herbs, garlic and olive oil. One may substitute duck or chicken livers for the pork liver for a lighter flavour, which would extend the yield from game birds such as the small and expensive squab.

Jane Grigson, in her fine book Charcuterie and French Pork Cookery, includes some seven recipes for gayettes and crépinettes as well as the British faggot. At my Sydney restaurant Bistro Moncur, in the early 1990s, we made large quantities of crépinettes and gayettes, and cooked them immersed in duck fat, then stored them under a thick layer of clarified duck fat to improve the flavour. Reheating was simply done in a pan over low heat and a brief visit to a hot oven.

I would encourage readers to experiment, keeping to the ratio of fat to lean meats in this recipe. It is good to remember that fat plays an important role in the preservation of charcuterie, together with salt and alcohol, and provides a richer flavour. I use the traditional ratio of two per cent salt to solid meat weight, but the ratio could be reduced to 1.6 per cent (16gm per kilo) to taste.

These gayettes will add a wow-factor to your summer barbecues, and need only a touch of mustard. And you could accompany them wtih a delicious potato salad instead of the gratin of potatoes included here. Cook kipflers as directed and turn them out onto a platter rubbed with a smashed garlic clove, then sprinkle them lightly with dry white wine, and salt and pepper. When the potatoes have cooled a little, add finely sliced shallots, cornichons and plenty of chopped parsley, and bind them with a small amount of mayonnaise or thick yoghurt. Delicious casual summer eating.

At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 - 8 people

Featured in

Jan 2014

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