"Sciatt is a dish typical of Valtellina," Pavoni says. "Valtellina is in the north of Lombardy on the border with Switzerland, and it's famous for buckwheat, which is very filling. Sciatt, in local dialect, means toad, because it's ugly. They take a piece of Bitto cheese, or Fontina, dip it in a light batter of buckwheat flour, grappa and a local red beer, and deep-fry it. It should be crusty outside and melted inside. We'd usually serve it with a salad of cabbage or radicchio, or as a stuzzichino on the bar. Very tasty."