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Restaurant Como

It’s easy to skip through the village of Blaxland when finding (or fleeing) the Blue Mountains. Yet Restaurant Como manages to turn a nondescript room off a car park into a stop worth making. Como is the passion project of Rachel and Grant Farrant: she provides the service that makes the surroundings disappear; he presides over an elaborate menu full of treats and tricks. Order well and robust flavours are yours: an earthy entrée of beets, ’shrooms, biting Charleston brie and fennel confit is a simple gem. Oh-wow oxtail with a perfectly rested beef fillet and glammed-up mash, on the other hand, is a bit confused by a chestnut purée and caramelised onions. Ditto lush coconut-braised pork belly and fat sea scallops; the pumpkin tart, coconut caramel and watermelon and feta make for a too-busy dish. There’s lots to like at Como; a little more focus would go a long way.