Top 20 new restaurants of 2013

Café Paci, Sydney

Finnish-Mexican? Sort of. Not really. No. But former Marque head chef Pasi Petänen’s take on contemporary cooking at Café Paci is still thoroughly outré and utterly compelling – especially at such a great price.

The Town Mouse, Melbourne

With its sleek bar-like fit-out, friendly vibe and intriguing eats from chef Dave Verheul (oysters with chardonnay sorbet?), The Town Mouse is a very savvy arrival on the former Embrasse site in Carlton. And hey, it’s only deafening 80 per cent of the time, tops.

Ester, Sydney

With its laid-back vibe, killer wine list and Mat Lindsay’s spontaneous, mighty tasty wood-fired treats, Ester encompasses casual Sydney dining at its most fun.

Cumulus Up, Melbourne

They had us at “duck waffles”. Cumulus Up has everything a good wine bar should – a sharp yet comfortable interior, snappy service and a top-shelf list – but, in truth, it’s the food that has us utterly seduced.

Magill Estate, Adelaide

Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant is back, quite possibly better than ever, with a smart new fit-out by designer Pascale Gomes-McNabb and ambitious five- and eight-course menus featuring the likes of cured tuna belly with asparagus smoked in hay by newly appointed chef Scott Huggins. Adelaide is back in the game.

Gazi, Melbourne

George Calombaris closed his Flinders Street flagship earlier this year with a view to reopening it in December in the space that used to be the restaurant’s bar. In its place in the meantime, he’s given us Gazi, where he turns kebab-shop classics on their heads to winning effect.

Tonka, Melbourne

With Tonka, Coda chef Adam D’Sylva has created an edit of Indian food that’s wine-friendly and perfect for a big night out. It’s fresh, it’s lively and we love it.

Cipro, Sydney

The talented team at Cipro may do things simply, but they sure do them well. From the signature pizza al taglio (pork ragù? yes please) to Catherine Adams’s smart desserts, it’s a winner through and through.

Ace Pizza, Perth

Ace isn’t just about the pie – it also offers an excellent selection of gutsy dishes from the kitchen, all perfect for a good night on the tiles. Fried macaroni and cheese? Pig’s head with witlof? Beef short rib with carrots and pancetta? We’ll take the lot – and a pizza to wrap it all up in, thanks.

Eighty Six, Canberra

Buzzy new Canberra contender Eighty Six brings fun, punchy dishes (its popcorn sundae graced the cover of our September issue) and a party vibe to the increasingly hip heart of Braddon.

Saint Crispin, Melbourne

Eel croquettes, pork with heirloom carrots, curried raisins and saffron, and blood orange parfait – Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac’s ambitious, inventive cooking at Saint Crispin has made it the talk of Smith Street.

Alpha, Sydney

From golden spanakopita to ouzo-glazed lamb ribs and a fresh outing for his scallop-adorned interpretation of moussaka, Peter Conistis’s return to form at his CBD diner Alpha is a triumph.

Vincent, Sydney

With house-made cheeses, a hand-buffed all-French wine list and an engaging menu featuring the likes of Comté custard, chicken in yellow wine, and a dangerously good baba au rhum, Vincent, the Buzo clan’s foray into French food, is a restaurant on the fast-track to neighbourhood-favourite status.

Valentino, Melbourne

Riccardo Momesso has taken the rustic road at his new Calabrian diner, Valentino. From the crisp-crusted pizze to the hand-cut pasta, it’s regional-Italian comfort eating at its best.

Rosa’s Kitchen, Melbourne

Rosa Mitchell’s CBD comeback didn’t disappoint. Whether it’s her famous frittata or a simple bowl of orecchiette dressed with cauliflower and saffron, Mitchell’s honest Sicilian fare at Rosa’a Kitchen is kicking more goals than ever before.

Peel Street, Adelaide

With its small-bar vibe and unfussy food from the blackboard menu (hola grilled haloumi with vine leaves and Spanish ham) and the service counter (lamb shank empanada, Southern-style fried chicken with mayo), Peel St – the new 90-seater from Aquacaf alumni Ben McLeod and Jordan Theodoros – is a welcome new addition to Adelaide’s food scene.

Nomad, Sydney

Nomad‘s all-Australian wine list, spacious digs and fresh, Moorish-inspired eats from young gun Nathan Sasi make for a promising recipe. Say yes to the wood-roasted pork with silverbeet and saltwater potatoes.

A Baker, Canberra

It’s a bakery. It’s a café. It’s a wine bar. It’s a restaurant. A Baker is a big hit that somehow manages to convincingly pull off most of these identities all at once.

Bellota, Melbourne

With its colossal list (we’re talking 3,500-plus labels here), old-school feel and superb wine-friendly menu (featuring the likes of potted smoked eel, tempura-battered king prawns with harissa-flavoured alioli, and one very tasty potato and onion tortilla), it’s easy to see why Bellota is fast becoming a Melbourne favourite.

Chow Bar & Eating House, Sydney

Deep-fried lemon chicken, roast pork “cannon shot” dumplings and smoky pickled greens with five-spice tofu are just a few of the treasures on offer at Chow Bar & Eating House, where Chinese-inspired eats meet with a fun, easy vibe for good times.