The definition of "artisan" may have been bastardised beyond meaning in an era of mass production, but Lune will brook no slights. Kate Reid's croissanterie has moved to bigger digs in Fitzroy, but her exacting iterations of French pâtisserie perfection remain truly artisanal - which explains why the queue forms before sunrise and they sell out by mid-morning. Lune Croissanterie, 119 Rose St, Fitzroy, Vic
What are the dishes we're talking about right now? What are the flavours that will take us into the next half-century?
There's plenty of established excellence we haven't included here. Golden Century's pipis in XO sauce, MoVida's smoked tomato sorbet and anchovy, Neil Perry's date tart, Quay's snow egg - living (and delicious) pieces of Australian culture all. But what of tomorrow's hall-of-famers? Here, in no particular order, are 50 dishes from around the country making waves right now.
Words: Max Allen, Larissa Dubecki, Sue Dyson & Roger McShane, Michael Harden, Pat Nourse, Maggie Scardifield, David Sly, Samantha Teague and Max Veenhuyzen.