What are the dishes we're talking about right now? What are the flavours that will take us into the next half-century?
There's plenty of established excellence we haven't included here. Golden Century's pipis in XO sauce, MoVida's smoked tomato sorbet and anchovy, Neil Perry's date tart, Quay's snow egg - living (and delicious) pieces of Australian culture all. But what of tomorrow's hall-of-famers? Here, in no particular order, are 50 dishes from around the country making waves right now.
Words: Max Allen, Larissa Dubecki, Sue Dyson & Roger McShane, Michael Harden, Pat Nourse, Maggie Scardifield, David Sly, Samantha Teague and Max Veenhuyzen.