Here's how Ramen Lab works: the noodle counter is tiny, crowded and standing room only; the chef changes every month, along with the menu; and there's always a wait. Less a restaurant than a permanent pop-up, Ramen Lab is a side project by Sun Noodle, a family-owned noodle maker that fuels New York's excellent ramen scene. On the edge of Little Italy, it's a showcase for some of the most celebrated ramen chefs in the world, a chance to taste the noodles they're eating in Tokyo, or Kagoshima or Los Angeles. Typically, each chef is in residence for the first three weeks of the month (follow the Instagram account @ramenlab for details). Order the signature ramen and a can of sake − as pure a culinary experience as you'll find anywhere. ramen-lab.com
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