Daily noon-9.30pm (limited menu 3pm-6pm)
Unlike the tumbleweed territory of Docklands, there's a sunny atmosphere at the CBD-fringe precinct of South Wharf that draws the crowds. They come for the likes of Akachochin, which achieves attractiveness outside (with its waterside aspect), inside (its long marble bar) and on the plate. Ex-Nobu chef Kengo Hiromatsu's inventive, beautifully plated dishes are exemplified by hand-diced kingfish tartare accented with wasabi, miso and sesame oil and accompanied by diaphanous rice-cracker sheets. Wagyu tataki is similarly lively, its marbling sharpened with a citrus-chilli-miso sauce and deep-fried slivers of leek. Saltwater barramundi steamed in chilli ponzu with shimeji mushrooms is more wintry, contrasted with colourful hits of chilli and purple radish leaves. Dessert choices are more limited, but black sesame panna cotta with green tea ice-cream blends voluptuousness and tartness. Service and the drinks list are authentically Japanese.
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