Lunch Fri-Sat noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-9pm
Every ambitious young chef hopes for a little 34-seater where they cook highly personal cuisine for an adoring audience. Vue de Monde graduate Clinton McIver is one of the few to live the dream: Amaru has been building loyalties and a repertoire of sensitive dishes since opening in early 2016. The food is complex but not lost in technique. A binchotan grill is used to fine effect: prawn is lightly brined and briefly grilled with utmost tenderness, venison is hung for two months until almost jellified, then lightly finished on charcoal. Desserts are delicate, with vegetables and herbs as stars: roast potato ice-cream is returned to a potato-skin bowl, tarragon lends floral tang to passionfruit ice. The survival (and success) of a dégustation-only restaurant on a strip better known for almond-milk lattes is testament to McIver's knack for balancing the curious with the simply tasty, and his consideration for diners' sprightliness at the end of a multi-course meal.