Lunch Thu-Sat noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-9pm
Amaru is dressed to impress. A one-time shopfront turned into an intimate 34-seat restaurant, its concrete-render walls, indoor plants and upholstered armchairs exude sophistication and good taste. Lest things become too slick, neon feature lighting and a wall of curtains create a touch of theatre. Some theatricality is to be expected, given the owner-chef is Clinton McIver, a former Vue de Monde sous-chef, and it's present on the (attractive earthenware) plate, too. The menu starts with snacks such as fried swede topped with trout roe and moves on to five or six well-proportioned savoury courses: dry-aged duck served with pickled cucumber and burnt leek oil, say, or marron laid under a sliver of local jamón. Buffalo mozzarella ice-cream with sun-dried strawberries is a typically impressive dessert, and the service is as charming as the room. The smart, European-leaning wine list, with a smattering of sake, provides a fitting final flourish.
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