REVIEW
Clinton McIver’s four- and eight-course dégustations are ready for their close-ups. Arriving on hand-shaped crockery, combinations like smoked duck ham curled along a length of crisp fermented carrot or slivers of shiitake and chawanmushi drifting in a sparkling broth are as good-looking as they are well balanced. Sourdough bread is a course in itself, its impressive depth of flavour matched by cultured butter and unfiltered olive oil mixed with malted-beer honey. Desserts, such as a playfully deconstructed cheesecake, threaten to steal the show with their not-too-sweet complexity. Service is as smooth and comforting as the upholstered dining room while the drinks list includes a small yet impressive selection of sake, alongside evenly balanced Euro and Aussie labels. Amaru is smooth but it’s an equally interesting and intelligent operator, too.
Phone:
(03) 9822 0144
Website:
Bookings:
Bookings recommended
Features:
Licensed
Vegetarian-friendly
Wheelchair Access
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Diners Club
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Clinton McIver
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★
2019 Top 100 Rank – #75
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
