Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Fri 5.30pm-10.30pm, Sat 5pm-10.30pm
One bite into Anchovy's addictive tempura snack with The Laughing Cow cheese (a fried cube of Vegemite-infused custard topped with whipped cheese - don't knock it 'til you try it) and it's obvious chef ThiLe's not kidding about the modern Asian label. Le, the winner of last year'sBest New Talent award, cooks with confidence, verve and imagination, whether she's teaming lambs' brains with whipped tofu and XO sauce or green tomatoes with figs, dried shrimp and chilli. The once-stark dining space has been softened: there's now a comfy banquette and individual tables under kinder lighting. It feels grown up, more restauranty. It works for the menu and the clever price-conscious wine list that flits between the Old and New World in search of a good match for dreamy char-grilled pork neck with pickles and bánh hoi or roasted nashi pear with rice sorbet. There's nothing else like Anchovy in Melbourne. Unique tastes good.