Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm
We're not in Richmond any more, Toto. Except that we are. In a bright, functional dining room, backed with low-key but informed service, chef Thi Le, an alumna of Andrew McConnell's kitchens, quietly explodes any preconceptions about what Vietnamese cuisine can look like in a contemporary context. A lettuce leaf and bundle of herbs cradles not the classic spring roll, but blood sausage and slivers of raw ginger, while cured ocean trout, pomelo and young coconut take rice-paper rolls from the ho-hum to the hey-ya. Shavings of cured egg yolk render a variety of grilled squashes savoury and complex, while the simple, elegant addition of lime leaves makes even the classic lemon soda truly memorable. A clafoutis of perfect peaches, hot in a heavy cast-iron pan and served with crème fraîche, keeps things confident right to the end. It's not foam and tricks that win the day here, but good taste and real skill.
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