Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm
So enthusiastic is sommelier Joshua Donnelly in explaining the contours of the Mosel Valley that one could be forgiven for thinking it's all about the wine here. Happily, his offbeat recommendations - like the latest local natural-wine experiment at Eden Road - stay on-message with Ben Willis's refined and thought-provoking cooking. "Shiro kin wagyu, smoked eel brandade, raspberries, rhubarb dressing" reveals itself to be a deftly seasoned carpaccio, with contrasting sweet, tart and salty notes. A tender piece of pork neck treads a more familiar path, coated with a fine persillade and balanced by the tangy-sweet interplay of creamy soubise and stewed apple. Desserts also embody restrained experimentation; ice-cream infused with fig leaf cuts the richness of a refined chocolate and praline délice. Service is confident and professional, and the tawny-toned dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows is as smart as they come in Canberra.
4 courses $90