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Dinner: Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm
In the capable hands of Ben Willis and his enthusiastic staff, this suburban gem is posh, polished and not without a touch of sass, too. The elegant room with floor-to-ceiling windows facing a leafy street has a special-occasion vibe. The food is bold and beautiful, and the extensive wine list, with plenty of Australian offerings, is a splendid teammate. There's a touch of the nursery in the slow-cooked egg with sweet baby onions and corn, and the quail trio of ballotine, sausage and bijou Scotch egg is sophisticated picnic fare. Roast Cape Grim beef rib-eye with a mustard crust is clearly a favourite, given its frequent emergence from the kitchen, but the leatherjacket with ham, peas and mussels might benefit from a softer-textured fish as its centrepiece. A happily messy chocolate ganache with liquorice custard and strawberries rounds off an evening of class and comfort.
Tastings: 2 courses $65, 3 courses $80, 5 courses $95