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Modern Australian

The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, but certainly not jaded, rock star. These days he's trading flashy riffs for the culinary equivalent of unplugged - respect for produce and a less-is-more ethos. Leatherjacket is delicately poached, while the alliums it shares the plate with impart piquancy and purslane provides crunch. Just-pink, pepper-crusted chicken liver accompanies organic breast meat - with fresh salty-and-sweet bursts from accompanying black fig and prosciutto. Willis really hits a groove on dessert - a dish of liquorice custard and rose ice-cream is a beguiling composition of aniseed and floral tones. Service is seamless and staff move smoothly in the refined, split-level space of floor-to-ceiling windows and tawny tones. The wine list has hits and memories, but forays into edgier genres - including white wines with extended skin contact - keep Aubergine at the top of the local charts.

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At a glance

  • Food:
  • One Star
  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • 4 courses $80; 5-course tasting menu $95

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings essential
  • Chef:
  • Ben Willis



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