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Dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm
The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, but certainly not jaded, rock star. These days he's trading flashy riffs for the culinary equivalent of unplugged - respect for produce and a less-is-more ethos. Leatherjacket is delicately poached, while the alliums it shares the plate with impart piquancy and purslane provides crunch. Just-pink, pepper-crusted chicken liver accompanies organic breast meat - with fresh salty-and-sweet bursts from accompanying black fig and prosciutto. Willis really hits a groove on dessert - a dish of liquorice custard and rose ice-cream is a beguiling composition of aniseed and floral tones. Service is seamless and staff move smoothly in the refined, split-level space of floor-to-ceiling windows and tawny tones. The wine list has hits and memories, but forays into edgier genres - including white wines with extended skin contact - keep Aubergine at the top of the local charts.
4 courses $80; 5-course tasting menu $95