You'd be forgiven for making assumptions about the kind of restaurant Balthazar might be. A discreet façade in Perth's white-collar heartland. The clubby, Art Deco room that effortlessly moves from business by day to pleasure after dark. Sharing a name with a legendary brasserie in New York. But just when you think it's going to be all pastis and escargot, the waiter behind the marble counter offers you a Sazerac perfumed with lemon myrtle and macadamia-infused rye. Unexpected? Sure, but this experience is the brilliance of Balthazar in microcosm: the standards given a shake-up. So the tartare is raw lamb amped up by harissa, a classic scallop and black-pudding pairing gets a surprising dose of puréed watercress, and a dense brick of chocolate served with cherries and yoghurt equals a fun spin on Black Forest. Staff can feel a little too cool, but quickly warm to guests who take a serious interest in the restaurant's wild, lo-fi wine list.