Mon-Thu noon-10.30pm, Fri-Sat noon-12.30am
After more than a decade, Bar Lourinhã's star power shows no signs of waning. Adorned with kitschy icons and vintage bric-a-brac, the narrow dining room at the top of Little Collins Street fills to bursting each night. First come the waves of office workers sharing cava and spiced almonds, before a louder, livelier bunch flows in, raising the noise levels and staying for the long haul over bottles of earthy red. Matthew McConnell's assured Spanish menu kicks off with tapas of prawn croquetas and chewy puffs of fried bread draped with boquerones and a swipe of persillade. For raciones, standouts include pimentón-dusted mussels slick with burnt butter, and the rib-sticking comfort of braised lamb neck with freekeh and fruity Aleppo pepper. To finish, a rich, tangy bowl of pomegranate crema with bittersweet pistachio praline cries out to be shared. Warm, enthusiastic service adds to the energy, as does the globe-hopping wine list.