REVIEW
There are few more magical approaches to a restaurant in Australia than the short, sweet ride across the Hawkesbury to berth at this river-locked landmark. As the water laps and sucks at the stones beneath the louvred windows running the length of the long, airy room, diners poke and prod at the small arrangements of food daintily adorning their large plates. It’s tricky stuff, and sometimes the frills of chervil and crossed slivers of apple (on scallops with chorizo), dashi “crisp” and lemon foam (on an earthy tranche of trout) or the sweet and vinegary tarragon gel (with gooey-tender short rib and onion rings) seem needlessly fussy and not always in the service of great taste. Service is well meaning but not so well drilled that, for instance, you’ll always have wine in your glass when your plate arrives. You might find more dazzle for your $155 a head elsewhere in Sydney, but Berowra’s unique setting remains as entrancing as ever.
Phone:
(02) 9456 1027
Website:
http://www.berowrawatersinn.com/
Bookings:
Bookings essential
Features:
BYO
Licensed
Vegetarian-friendly
Private room
Impressive Wine List
Accepted card types:
American Express
Eftpos
MasterCard
Visa
Chef(s):
Brian Geraghty
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
