Lunch Fri-Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Fri-Sat 7pm-11pm
There are few more magical approaches to a restaurant in Australia than the short, sweet ride across the Hawkesbury to berth at this river-locked landmark. As the water laps and sucks at the stones beneath the louvred windows running the length of the long, airy room, diners poke and prod at the small arrangements of food daintily adorning their large plates. It's tricky stuff, and sometimes the frills of chervil and crossed slivers of apple (on scallops with chorizo), dashi "crisp" and lemon foam (on an earthy tranche of trout) or the sweet and vinegary tarragon gel (with gooey-tender short rib and onion rings) seem needlessly fussy and not always in the service of great taste. Service is well meaning but not so well drilled that, for instance, you'll always have wine in your glass when your plate arrives. You might find more dazzle for your $155 a head elsewhere in Sydney, but Berowra's unique setting remains as entrancing as ever.