Surprises are not on the menu at Bistro Guillaume. The unexpected is anathema to its raison d'être, which is to deliver straight-up French classics in smart surroundings that make the Yarra stand in situ for the Seine. In the wrong hands, it could be a disaster, but Guillaume Brahimi, who regularly visits his southern outpost, keeps the Gallic flag flying proudly thanks to countless barely perceptible touches: the muslin-wrapped half lemon for the pristine oysters with red wine vinaigrette; the lattice crisps with a steak tartare that adeptly balances the flavour-whack of capers, spring onions and boldly seasoned beef; the charry, butter-drenched toast fingers for scooping up gratinated escargot from their parsley-dominated sauce. It's certainly one of the city's go-to spots for pitch-perfect steak frites. And there's polish in the profiteroles: a jug of molten chocolate to pour over textbook choux, and vanilla bean ice-cream putting the ooh into the la la.