Shannon Bennett's sister restaurant, Vue de Monde, is one block and 55 floors away, but his romantic, playfully nostalgic Bistro Vue soars in other ways. Diners are treated to parquet tables, red velvet banquettes, and a menu of greatest hits that avoids dwelling in the past. Sure, there's pastry-topped onion soup, steak with béarnaise, parsley-crusted snails and a piano accordionist playing "La Vie en Rose". But the open kitchen also dishes up duck egg ready to be sloshed through crisp kale with pork jowl, snapper fillet cooked pearly in paperbark, and pumpkin gnocchi that look chunky but are almost marshmallow-light. A mixed grill of lamb teams kidneys with fillet and peppery sausage. Verdant fresh greens and crusty bread come from Bennett's Dandenongs outpost. Polished staff draw the curtains on a night of pleasurable theatre with an ornate hazelnut and lemon bombe Alaska, flambéed dramatically at the table.
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