Dinner Mon-Sat 5.30pm-9pm
The Black Cow grills on: it's still a local favourite and it's increasingly popular with visitors. The main reason? A list of carefully sourced cuts of aged, grass-fed beef and some consistently champion-standard char-grilling. Entrées, such as char-grilled tiger prawns in a tart sauce of lemongrass, coconut and turmeric, provide a solid overture while a slice of pork belly, crisp crackle on, is well matched with a burnt mirin and soy barbecue sauce. But beef is chief. The Cape Grim eye fillet takes texture and tenderness to lofty heights, boosted by accompaniments that range from lush béarnaise and a Café de Paris butter to softly smoky barbecue sauce. Smart sides are designed to match the meat, like beetroot and cool Persian feta and mushrooms cooked with garlic and parsley. The room is run with crisp professionalism rather than warm hospitality, but the Cow still brings it home, six nights a week.