Modern Australian

A bistro interpretation of Orana restaurant's food philosophy triggered a hasty transformation of the former Street ADL space. Communal benches and street food make way for conventional table settings and à la carte dining, although the split-level room retains the same wall art and fixtures. The big change is how native ingredients add a curious edge to comfort foods - big bowls of English longhorn beef braised in kutjera miso on spaetzle, or seared prawns with farmer's friend, given sauerkraut-like tang with pandanus vinegar. A blackboard suggests many cuts of steak from different breeds, but there's also the exotica of smoky kangaroo tail from the kitchen's fire pit. Apple meringue tart with apple granita is very sweet; opt instead for aged goat's cheddar by cheesemaker Kris Lloyd. The food is generous, accompanied by a dashing list of minimal-intervention wines, but the room lacks the personality and sharp service this bistro deserves.

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At a glance

  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $22-$26

    M $34-$38

    D $18-$23

    4-course tasting menu $70

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Jock Zonfrillo & Shannon Fleming


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