Blackwood
Modern Australian
Blackwood
-34.922626,138.610128

A bistro interpretation of Orana restaurant's food philosophy triggered a hasty transformation of the former Street ADL space. Communal benches and street food make way for conventional table settings and à la carte dining, although the split-level room retains the same wall art and fixtures. The big change is how native ingredients add a curious edge to comfort foods - big bowls of English longhorn beef braised in kutjera miso on spaetzle, or seared prawns with farmer's friend, given sauerkraut-like tang with pandanus vinegar. A blackboard suggests many cuts of steak from different breeds, but there's also the exotica of smoky kangaroo tail from the kitchen's fire pit. Apple meringue tart with apple granita is very sweet; opt instead for aged goat's cheddar by cheesemaker Kris Lloyd. The food is generous, accompanied by a dashing list of minimal-intervention wines, but the room lacks the personality and sharp service this bistro deserves.


You might also like:

Assaggio

Assaggio's very red, very mod fit-out has undeniable flair,...

Ruby Red Flamingo

Once a bastion of Baptist morals and Victorian manners, thi...

At a glance

  • Wine:
  • Two glasses
  • Price:
  • E $22-$26

    M $34-$38

    D $18-$23

    4-course tasting menu $70

  • Feature:
  • Licensed
    Bar
    Wheelchair Access
    Outdoor dining
    Private room
    Impressive Wine List
  • Cards:
  • American Express
    Eftpos
    MasterCard
    Visa
  • Bookings:
  • Bookings recommended
  • Chef:
  • Jock Zonfrillo & Shannon Fleming

MOST VIEWED IN OUR RESTAURANT GUIDE

Bar Lourinha

Melbourne, VIC
Turning 10 has added spring to Bar Lourinha's step. Not that this perennially crowded fav...

Da Noi

Melbourne, VIC
First-timers should know a couple of things about Da Noi. First, there's no menu. Second,...

Aubergine

Griffith, ACT
The grey-whiskered Ben Willis could pass for a maturing, but certainly not jaded, rock st...

Smolt

Hobart, TAS
Smolt is the Volvo of Hobart restaurants: always reliable, without making a fuss. Secure ...

Esquire

Brisbane, QLD
Esquire isn't a restaurant for everyone. Control freaks, for instance, won't like letting...

1889 Enoteca

Brisbane, QLD
There's no better place in Brisbane to enjoy regional classics and seek out exciting, low...

Press Food & Wine

Adelaide, SA
Occupying a former printing house, Press specialises in meat hot off the wood-fired grill...

Sean’s

Sydney, NSW
Freshly cut roses from the garden, blushing mangoes lined up on the kitchen pass, and the...
get the latest news

Sign up to receive the latest food, travel and dining news direct from Gourmet Traveller headquarters.

×