Dinner Mon-Fri 5pm-10pm
There's intensity here: in the energy levels of floor staff working a perpetually full house, in the furious output in the open kitchen from early evening, among diners packed cheek-by-jowl along the narrow terrace's brick walls, in a drinks list big on organic wines, left-of-centre grape varieties and craft beers. But most of all there's intensity in share plates full of muscular flavours and bold matches. Polenta chips, the house favourite, come out swinging with Gorgonzola dipping sauce. And there's nothing shy about kingfish carpaccio dusted with fish floss atop shredded green mango, cucumber and pomelo, or chargrilled lamb on cauliflower purée spiked with pickled carrot and chilli broccoli jam. The crescendo peaks in rich, sticky barbecued pork ribs charged with shiso and pickled mustard greens. Desserts, too, are busy and assertive, whether it's the boozy trifle or poached pears layered with amaretti and dark chocolate.