Chat Thai is at a location near you. Some take bookings, some don't. The service is efficient, and attentive. The menus are big and embrace many regions, all done well, while the food is fresh and fast. Ordering the pad Thai here is no cop-out: rich, balanced and satisfying, it's the go-to noodle dish. For grills, venture no further than the char-grilled pork neck with smoked chilli and tamarind relish - tender, charred fatty goodness. Try a papaya salad (declare your heat preference): it's the best example of the depth and balance of Thai cuisine. The five-spice duck, meanwhile, demonstrates great technique - the fat is rendered, the skin is crisp and the greens have crunch - while the chicken in red curry is impressively tender. And the desserts, salty-sweet and texturally interesting, are definitely worth your time. The simple wine list more than covers the basics, with plenty to match both the spicy and the rich. All up, amazing value for money.