Mon-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-10pm
Timelessness. It's not, perhaps, a quality one automatically associates with this particular stretch of Acland Street. But then Cicciolina has never been precisely part of its St Kilda surroundings so much as a respite from them. Slip inside and it's all clubby regulars, tightly packed tables and service that's snappy (not least in tone). In some ways the menu carries echoes of the time two decades ago when the restaurant opened, and it can be jarring to see, say, the eye fillet, parsnip purée and jus or the venison with bone-marrow soufflé on offer when the mercury is pushing the high 30s. Prices, it should be said, have kept pace with modern mores, but pours and plates are generous, whether it's a carpaccio of ocean trout and kingfish dotted richly with sour cream, Avruga, crisps of rye and nasturtium, or a charry Scotch on cavolo nero with a puck of mustard butter. Cicciolina has sex appeal and brio to burn - long may it smoulder.