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Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-9.30pm
You could opt for the abridged five-course menu. There's also a bar option allowing guests to cherrypick from the day's dishes. Yet investing the time and dollars for the full 10-course dinner remains the best way to appreciate Kiren Mainwaring's fierce commitment to provenance. While artfully arranged plates show no shortage of assured technique, the combinations that impress most tend to be the ones where the kitchen does the least. Juicy lamb tongue and glassy blooms of fried kale rest on a bright blueberry jus. Rich corn soup is poured at the table, setting off blackened kernels, shaved broccoli and savoury house-made chorizo. Wild samphire and dabs of kimchi give oomph to expertly cooked barramundi. The décor and service might err on the reserved side, but daring beverage and music choices are memorable calling cards of this ambitious dark horse.
5 courses $95, 10 courses $120
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