Lunch Sun noon-2.45pm
Dinner Tue-Sun 6pm-10.30pm
Cutler & Co is a definitive Melbourne dining experience: a former tableware factory on gritty-glam Gertrude Street reborn as Andrew McConnell's flagship and staffed by one of the sharpest floor teams in town. A recent renovation has turbo-charged the feeling. The Cutler bar scored a revamp and its own menu (abalone katsu! seafood platter!) while the main dining room is handsomer and sexier thanks to leather booths, metal-framed glass doors and granite detailing. Chef Chris Watson now heads the kitchen, decluttering the menu while retaining an exciting, balanced complexity and originality: poached pheasant with foie gras parfait, say, or an applause-worthy mushroom pithiviers with aged Comté and salt-baked celeriac. Larger dishes to share (such as a whole corn-fed chicken) keep the menu grounded. An exceptional wine list that caters to all tastes and budgets, whether $35 or $1350, adds to the appeal. Definitive indeed.