Lunch Sun noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm
This is how Melbourne likes to party: a quick sashay through a dining room packed with up-for-it-punters, and then great bread and even better wine hit the unclothed tables in no time flat, followed shortly by rock oysters, briny and bright, and tiny fingers of toast topped with fillets of Ortiz anchovy. From there it's a choice of more small and delicate things (spanner crab sweet and wholesome in a golden chicken broth; flounder framed by browned butter sauce and pickled cucumbers), or going big: a kilo of dry-aged Angus rib-eye grilled on the bone, for instance, or a quarter of a suckling pig, roasted and served with spiced cauliflower, baby cos and a sour-cream dressing. Some compositions border on busy, thrown into contrast, perhaps, by the spare elegance of the plates at Marion, the new sister wine bar next door, but the larger Cutler package - especially the service - trumps it with big-night-out sparkle nonetheless.
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